Old Post Office Guest House

There's a well-worn dip in the front step of the Old Post Office Guest House in Paparoa. Many boots have scuffed the wood over the past 120 years, including those of owner Deb Clapperton's greatgrandfather, who immigrated to nearby Pahi in the 1880s. Despite her family ties, Deb lived in Whangaparāoa before moving to Paparoa with her late husband, Kevin. They purchased the Old Post Office and Saddlery next door (Deb's private sanctuary) and set about transforming the decommissioned building into a pretty B&B.

Deb, a former English teacher, saw beneath decades of renovations to the story hiding under the surface. There are six rooms, with a range of bedding configurations. The kauri walls are decorated with the verse of New Zealand poets, and piles of classic New Zealand novels are ready to keep guests company during winter nights.

Deb provides creature comforts, with homemade bread and jams for breakfast (try Captain Cook's Carrot Marmalade — apparently it wards off scurvy), handmade soaps and home baking, and pets in the form of chooks and a sweet rescue pup. She's a wealth of knowledge about Kaipara's quirks, including where to find the best geodes and fossils (the west side of Pahi Peninsula and Tinopai) and how guests can explore the nearby pā site. 3247 Paparoa-Oakleigh Road,

Paparoa. (09) 431 6444. oldpostofficeguesthouse.co.nz